Logbook Canada Adventure

1. 12 November 2010 11:05 utc

   • Position: 53° 52.233 N 010° 41.041 E
   • Wind: SW / 6-7 Bft
   • Weather: Showers / 9.8 °C
   • Water temperature: Water: 11.0 °C

   Back in Germany: with today’s entry into Lübeck’s city harbour we have successfully completed the voyage with all its difficult stages. The welcome from the people present in Lübeck was warm. That same day the expedition’s film footage was assessed by a competent TV team. Everyone was delighted with the high quality of the raw footage, the camera work and the scenes captured. Our fears that the film material might have been damaged under the hard conditions of the expedition were not confirmed.

   Don’t forget: pre-order our new DVD “Canada Adventure” now. For more information see under “News”.

   Press release PDF · new tab

2. 6 November 2010 17:05 utc

   • Position: 55° 56.286 N 012° 29.676 E
   • Wind: W / 4-5 Bft
   • Weather: Dark / 5.6 °C
   • Water temperature: Water: 13.0 °C
   • Wave height: 0.5 - 1 m

   In the net: about one nautical mile before the entrance to the harbour of Klintholm (Denmark) the “Gypsy Life” ran into a heavy gill net lying at the surface of the water. With presence of mind I put the gearbox into “neutral”, so that the propeller no longer turned. Because of the ship’s great weight the momentum carried us on and the “Gypsy Life” tore the gill net apart. The cause of our awkward situation was that the owner had failed to mark the net with radar reflectors.

   Don’t forget: pre-order our new DVD “Canada Adventure” now. For more information see under “News”.

3. 3 November 2010 14:30 utc

   • Position: 57° 27.324 N 011° 54.846 E
   • Wind: SW / 9 Bft
   • Weather: Showers / 9.2 °C
   • Water temperature: Water: 13.0 °C

   Repair: the hard sea and the cold have taken a heavy toll on our radar. Only after a spare part had been delivered to us by taxi were we able to repair the fault. Now the “Gypsy Life” is once again able to take part in the busy shipping traffic off the Swedish coast.

   Don’t forget: pre-order our new DVD “Canada Adventure” now. For more information see under “News”.

4. 25 October 2010 13:43 utc

   • Position: 58° 27.413 N 008° 45.558 E
   • Wind: SW / 1 Bft
   • Weather: sunny / -2.3 °C
   • Water temperature: Water: 11.8 °C

   Arendal: we have left the North Atlantic and reached the Skagerrak sea area. From here on we can use almost exclusively sheltered inside passages for the journey home, so that we come safely and punctually into Lübeck by 12 November.

   Don’t forget: pre-order our new DVD “Canada Adventure” now. For more information see under “News”.

5. 20 October 2010 20:00 utc

   • Position: 58° 08.943 N 005° 15.447 E
   • Wind: NW / 7-9 Bft
   • Weather: Snowfall / -1.3 °C
   • Wave height: up to 5 m

   Skudeneshavn: a small idyllic harbour that gave us shelter and safety from the rough sea that night. The snowfall that set in brought back our memories of Canada. There we had to feed our wood stove with fuel every three to four hours so that warmth could spread through the “Gypsy Life”. Here in the harbour, electricity supplies our on-board heating. Civilisation has us back!

   Don’t forget: pre-order our new DVD “Canada Adventure” now. For more information see under “News”.

6. 15 October 2010 13:43 utc

   • Position: 60° 09.035 N 005° 10.555 W
   • Wind: N / 1 Bft
   • Weather: sunny / 21.4 °C
   • Water temperature: Water: 16.0 °C

   Successful and unique: we made use of the temporary lull in the weather to get from the Faroe Islands to the Shetlands in 27 hours. After a short stay of only one night we reached Norway after a further 29 hours under way.
   The “Gypsy Life” and her crew are the first steadying-sail motor boat of only 11.7 metres in length to have crossed the North Atlantic twice on the traditional Viking route, and in addition to have come successfully through a hard Labrador winter far from any civilisation, locked in thick ice. A challenge that demanded everything of man and material – sometimes even a little more.

   Don’t forget: pre-order our new DVD “Canada Adventure” now. For more information see under “News”.

7. 8 October 2010 17:52 utc

   • Position: 64° 10.172 N 011° 46.389 W
   • Wind: S / 2-3 Bft
   • Weather: Fog / 9.0 °C
   • Water temperature: Water: 11.0 °C
   • Wave height: up to 4 m

   Standstill: during the crossing to the Faroe Islands, after about eighty nautical miles covered, the main engine stopped all at once. An old fishing net of about five square metres had caught in the propeller. Despite the heavy rolling of the Gypsy Life – caused by the very high waves – I risked an extremely dangerous dive. After about thirty-five minutes of hard work I had managed to free the propeller from the net and we were able to continue our passage.
   We arrived at Westmanhaven (Faroes) on 9 October at 19:24 utc.

   Don’t forget: pre-order our new DVD “Canada Adventure” now. For more information see under “News”.

8. 4 October 2010 07:30 utc

   • Position: 64° 55.814 N 014° 01.327 W
   • Wind: NE / 2-3 Bft
   • Weather: Rain / 10.4 °C
   • Water temperature: Water: 11.0 °C

   Patience: mile by mile we have worked our way south through waves almost five metres high along the east coasts of Iceland. We are now waiting for the right moment to cross the stretch of sea to the Faroe Islands. For the roughly 250 nautical miles (463 kilometres) we reckon on about 45 hours under way in a moderate sea state. My physical condition has recovered far enough for me to take on this challenge.

   Don’t forget: pre-order our new DVD “Canada Adventure” now. For more information see under “News”.

9. 28 September 2010 12:12 utc

   • Position: 65° 45.458 N 028° 15.698 W
   • Wind: NE / 7 Bft
   • Weather: partly cloudy / 5.9 °C
   • Water temperature: Water: 5.4 °C
   • Wave height: 3.50 m

   Change of course: as was to be expected, hard winds and stormy seas prevailed over the past few days. But today it became too much. The wind freshened so strongly that we turned aside into the harbour “Vopnafjördur” to wait for the wind to ease a little.

   For subscription to our new DVD “Canada Adventure” see under “News”.

10. 20 September 2010 04:00 utc

    • Position: 65° 35.901 N 014° 49.128 W
    • Wind: SE / 7-8 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 7.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 13 °C

    Too late: we have been brought safely into harbour and are now resting a little. But the sea around Iceland goes on raging. According to several knowledgeable Icelanders we are about three weeks too late to get calmer weather again. So the “Gypsy Life” and her crew will still have very hard work to do to reach their destination.

    For subscription to our new DVD “Canada Adventure” see under “News”.

11. 19 September 2010 22:19 utc

    • Position: 65° 52.416 N 028° 15.698 W
    • Wind: NE / 7 Bft
    • Weather: partly cloudy / 5.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 5.4 °C
    • Wave height: 3.50 m

    The sea too strong, the Pauls too weak: the efforts of the past weeks did cost more physical energy than expected. Contrary to the weather forecast the wind freshened about 100 nautical miles off Iceland. A sea current running against the wind direction built up a relentless sea. Last night we drifted again. No improvement! A 66-metre trawler (fishing boat) nearby gave us shelter from the waves for a few hours. The Icelandic sea rescue service sent out two captains, who took the “Gypsy Life” and her crew into a safe harbour.
    Our very special thanks go to the crew of the trawler “Gudmundur i Nesi” and to the crew of the SAR “Vördur II”.

    For subscription to our new DVD “Canada Adventure” see under “News”.

    

    

    

    

    

    

12. 14 September 2010 11:00 utc

    • Position: 65° 36.821 N 037° 37.536 W
    • Wind: variable / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 10.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 8.7 °C

    Pre-order: our intention is to produce a DVD about our Canada Adventure Project immediately after we arrive back in Germany. This DVD will probably run for about 70 minutes, have English subtitles and will probably cost between 25.00 and 30.00 euros (plus postage and packing).
    All those interested who order our DVD “Canada Adventure” by 30 November 2010, stating name, address and telephone number, will receive exclusively one of our personally limited autograph cards with a fine landscape or animal photograph as the background.
    Secure your copy of our new DVD about our adventures in Canada now, at the email address:

    harald-paul@haraldpaul.com

13. 13 September 2010 23:52 utc

    • Position: 65° 36.821 N 037° 37.536 W
    • Wind: NE / 2 Bft
    • Weather: dark / 6.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 9.0 °C

    Wrung out: never in my whole life have I been as sparing as in the last few days. With a sponge and towels we collected the last of the diesel out of the tanks and wrung them out over a small canister. The diesel we got in this way was enough to keep our Yanmar alive and to reach Tasiilaq (Ammassalik).

14. 8 September 2010 09:58 utc

    • Position: 62° 33.092 N 042° 05.694 W
    • Wind: NE / 2 Bft
    • Weather: Fog / 5.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 5.4 °C
    • Wave height: 3.50 m

    Tight: because of the strong contrary current and the persistent headwinds we have so far needed considerably more fuel than calculated. The seven days under way reckoned for Tasiilaq (the only bunkering station on the east coast of Greenland) depend on the ice situation. But under these conditions the fuel will only last another five days. It is going to be very tight.

15. 4 September 2010 19:01 utc

    • Position: 60° 04.737 N 043° 11.657 W
    • Wind: SW / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy and fog / 12.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 8.0 °C

    Entry: the west coast and Cape Farewell are already behind us. Now we have to work our way along the difficult east coast through ice and against the current in order to reach Tasiilaq (Ammassalik).

16. 27 August 2010 11:03 utc

    • Position: 61° 19.745 N 048° 41.763 W
    • Wind: N / 5-6 Bft
    • Weather: Rain and fog / 9.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 6.4 °C

    Jinxed: almost exactly a year ago we anchored at the same spot off the west coast of Greenland. We could still remember very well how hurricane-force gusts of around 12 Bft turned our inflatable dinghy over here, outboard motor and all, and pushed the motor and the equipment completely under water. This time we had different problems. The air hose of the vent valve on our Yanmar main engine was blocked. Because of the missing air in the water intake, the engine filled up with water. As a rule that is certain death for any engine. It is thanks only to the sturdy and simple construction of the Yanmar engine and to my experience as a mechanic that the diesel is running again and the passage can be continued.

    

17. 22 August 2010 04:41 utc

    • Position: 61° 59.803 N 49° 41.284 W
    • Wind: NW / 5-6 Bft
    • Weather: Dark and fog / 7.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 6.0 °C

    Live from on board: the longed-for destination Paamiut (Frederikshåb, South Greenland) was reached after 74 hours of engine running time. Compared with last year’s crossing, the passage took about a day longer. The poor wind conditions were the reason for longer drifting times (the ship drifts very slowly before the wind in the sea without engine power, so that the crew can get some rest). Very tired and drained, we are now enjoying the quiet at the anchorage and are slowly winning back our lost strength.

18. 21 August 2010 08:00 utc

    • Position: 60° 43.180 N 53° 21.754 W
    • Wind: Calm / 0 Bft
    • Weather: Haze / 9.1 °C

    Live from on board: ran on through the whole night – wave height three metres on average, only one metre at dawn – a large school of pilot whales very close to the “Gypsy Life” – two hours ago it was possible for us, for the first time during the crossing, to eat a meal.

19. 20 August 2010 21:36 utc

    • Position: 59° 00.560 N 57° 24.880 W
    • Wind: SE / 6 Bft
    • Weather: fog - dark / 8.5 °C

    Live on board: drifting again and again because of the very heavy sea state. Because of the heavy rolling of the “Gypsy Life” I am in severe pain in my back, which I injured in the fall. Covered so far: 180 nautical miles – another 280 nautical miles to the coast of Greenland.

20. 19 August 2010 02:04 utc

    • Position: 57° 49.700 N 59° 25.384 W
    • Wind: SE / 6 Bft
    • Weather: fog - dark / 7.6 °C

    Live on board: voyage interrupted because of the heavy sea state – several hours of drifting!

21. 18 August 2010 13:29 utc

    • Position: 56° 56.670 N 061° 18.000 W
    • Wind: E / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 17.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 8.6 °C

    Goodbye: After almost a year in Canada we say farewell, with heartfelt thanks, to all the people of Labrador and Newfoundland who took part in our adventures and undertakings. We are now crossing the North Atlantic again to Greenland.
    Anyone who wants to know how we get on during the crossing and what adventures we have can follow the “Gypsy Life” under the heading “Live on board” in the logbook and on the Expedition Map.

22. 13 August 2010 14:40 utc

    • Position: 56° 32.518 N 061° 41.188 W
    • Wind: NW / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / 6.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 8.5 °C

    Get-together: Back in Nain again, we were warmly welcomed by the residents we already know. Three more sailing ships – two from Canada, one from the United States – had also come into the harbour. At an evening get-together with all the crew members, experiences and cheerful stories were exchanged.

23. 5 August 2010 13:30 utc

    • Position: 55° 00.431 N 058° 07.884 W
    • Wind: SE / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 17.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 12.0 °C

    Pests: Since last week the temperatures have been continuously above + 10 °. We dare to say that summer has begun. Cardigans and pullovers can now give way to T-shirts. In the meantime, however, myriads of mosquitoes have hatched. We have no choice but to protect every bit of bare skin and our heads from the attacks of the countless mosquitoes and midges. We protect ourselves with an upper-body net that is worn rather like a loose shirt. The pests here in Labrador are so aggressive that even the animals panic. We saw for ourselves how a caribou jumped into the sea to fend off the insects.

    

24. 2 August 2010 21:30 utc

    • Position: 53° 34.017 N 055° 59.642 W
    • Wind: SW / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 19.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 11.4 °C

    Training: About a week and a half ago I began doing back exercises to ease my pain and help the healing along. As it worked faster than planned, I dared to walk a short distance of about eight kilometres. Of course I still felt pain – but it grew less as my body warmed up (sweating). I hope that I will soon be completely free of pain, because the long leg to Greenland has to be covered soon.

25. 27 July 2010 08:41 utc

    • Position: 50° 42.336 N 057° 21.040 W
    • Wind: SW / 2 Bft
    • Weather: rain showers / 15.6 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 16.2 °C

    Hurricane: Our original intention was to cross the Atlantic from southern Newfoundland to the Portuguese Azores and to reach Europe from there. For the Atlantic crossing to the Azores we would have been at sea for about 8 to 10 days.
    But this year the hurricanes set in unusually early. Several attempts by other boat owners to reach Europe on this route have already ended in the loss of the boat. Because of these particular conditions the risk on this route seems too high to us, especially as there are only the two of us to stand watch. So after careful thought we have decided on the more difficult northern route, and we hope that the ice will not force us to overwinter a second time.

26. 24 July 2010 07:12 utc

    • Position: 50° 42.336 N 057° 21.040 W
    • Wind: SW / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 14.8 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 17.1 °C

    Viking Trail: In a borrowed “truck” we followed the Viking Trail from Port au Choix via Main Brook to Eddies Cove, around 350 kilometres through the interior. Here huge forests stretch as far as the eye can see, criss-crossed by countless rivers and lakes. On our exploratory drive we came across moose again and again.

    

27. 18 July 2010 19:14 utc

    • Position: 50° 42.090 N 057° 21.285 W
    • Wind: SW / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: fog / 11.2 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 16.2 °C

    Similarities: The panorama of the southern Labrador coast and the Newfoundland coast sometimes resembles the Scottish coast. Here the rocks are green with trees and bushes right down to the waterline. The animals too – the birds above all – become considerably more varied and richer in species.

    

    

    

    

    

    

28. 16 July 2010 15:10 utc

    • Position: 51° 19.883 N 056° 42.127 W
    • Wind: SW / 5-6 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 9.8 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 12.0 °C

    Arrival: We have covered 1000 nautical miles (1852 kilometres) since we left Nain. Today we reached the fishing harbour “Savage Cove” in Newfoundland. The heavy movement of the ship over the last few days has taken a considerable toll on my injured back. I had to stop the voyage so that the enormous pain can ease off a little.

    

29. 14 July 2010 20:40 utc

    • Position: 52° 39.052 N 055° 49.654 W
    • Wind: NE / 1 Bft
    • Weather: rain / 12.1 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 10.4 °C

    Ghost town: At the end of the fjord – near Cape St. Michaels – we came upon an abandoned fishing settlement. We found the remains of fishing nets, fish salt and much other gear needed for fishing. The most recent best-before date we could make out on the food in the huts was the year 1989. From this we conclude that the settlement was abandoned about 20 years ago.

    

30. 13 July 2010 20:58 utc

    • Position: 53° 34.017 N 055° 59.692 W
    • Wind: variable / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 21.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 11.2 °C

    Neighbours: Even as we were coming into today’s anchorage, several minke whales (Balaenoptera acutorostrata) crossed our course. After we had set our anchors, the whales came to within a few metres of the “Gypsy Life” and we were able to watch them hunting small fish. A great experience right beside us.

    

31. 6 July 2010 22:34 utc

    • Position: 53° 20.599 N 060° 23.784 W
    • Wind: NE / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / 12.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 11.2 °C

    Hospital: After today’s long day’s run (845 nautical miles in 14 hours), Silvia and I reached the town of “Goose Bay”. That same night a helpful resident took me to the hospital there. The first examinations do not point to a fractured vertebra.

32. 3 July 2010 20:27 utc

    • Position: 54° 30.417 N 057° 22.033 W
    • Wind: NW / 2-3 Bft
    • Weather: rain / 4.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 9.0 °C

    Misstep: While climbing over a crevice in the rock – probably deceived by a reflection in the shadows – I put one foot into thin air and fell very hard, landing on my back against a stone. Only in great pain did I manage to get back to our expedition ship “Gypsy Life”. By satellite telephone I am currently in contact with a German doctor who is passing first-aid measures on to me. I would like to thank him sincerely here for being available to me around the clock. I now have to reach the nearest hospital in Goose Bay so that the extent of my fall can be assessed properly there. A fractured vertebra cannot be entirely ruled out at the moment.

33. 1 July 2010 14:00 utc

    • Position: 55° 28.600 N 059° 44.100 W
    • Wind: E / 3-4 Bft
    • Weather: rain / 2.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 8.4 °C

    Odd: My present latitude (55°26.600 N) runs roughly along the border between northern Germany and Denmark. From here on the vegetation also shows the most varied broadleaf trees, such as birches (Betula pendula) and alders (Alnus viridis). With the temperatures it is quite a different matter. In the middle of June we were still recording night frosts. On a few days the daytime temperatures briefly reach 26°. Right down into the lowlands the snow still lies in the hollows in the ground. The willow grouse (Lagopus lagopus) and the mountain hares (Lepus timidus) are still camouflaged in two colours (white and brown). Oddly enough, I have the impression that the strong worldwide rise in temperature that I know from the European press evidently does not apply here. The surface of the water is still covered with three parts first-year ice (ice formed this winter).

34. 29 June 2010 07:30 utc

    • Position: 55° 17.559 N 060° 23.401 W
    • Wind: NE / 3-4 Bft
    • Weather: fog / 4.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 11.5 °C

    A hot reel: The hunting season ended back on 31 March and our stores of meat were dwindling. So of course we are very glad to be able to get fresh fish from the sea. The American lake char (Salvelinus namaycush) has migrated back from its wintering grounds – the freshwater lakes – into the sea to build itself up again on small fish. If you are lucky and find a shoal of these hard-fighting salmonids, the reel glows. My heaviest char weighed 2.2 kilograms and was 60 cm long. Smoked or fried, a real treat!

    

35. 23 June 2010 10:45 utc

    • Position: 55° 39.606 N 060° 26.429 W
    • Wind: SE / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 11.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 10.9 °C

    Idea: As the ice situation kept threatening to get out of hand with the shifting winds, I had to come up with a way out quickly. So by satellite telephone I called a friend in the town of Nain, who in turn had an acquaintance in the next settlement, Hopedale. From a high mountain this acquaintance was able to get a better view of the ice situation. With his information I ventured through the ice and finally reached open water off the settlement of Hopedale, sheltered by groups of islands.

36. 22 June 2010 13:00 utc

    • Position: 55° 39.806 N 060° 26.429 W
    • Wind: SE / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: rain / 13.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 12 °C

    Surprising: It goes without saying that, given our awkward situation, I followed the sea weather and ice reports on VHF radio every day. That the weather forecast differs considerably from the actual weather is known not only to me but also to the local people. The ice report, though, came as a surprise! According to the “satellite photo” figure, 4/10 ice cover (4 parts ice to 10 parts water). My own observations on the spot showed something quite different. After I contacted the transmitting station, the ice report was immediately corrected to 9/10 ice cover (9 parts ice to 10 parts water). On paper a small mistake – for us and for others a life-threatening situation.

37. 14 June 2010 18:00 utc

    • Position: 55° 45.675 N 060° 19.503 W
    • Wind: E / 4 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / 5.6 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 5.4 °C

    Disaster: While passing through a narrow channel between islands, we were dangerously beset by the pack ice. Current and wind were unfavourable, so that our ship was exposed to brutal pressure. At the last second we were able to prevent the total loss of the ship. There was salt water in the forward part of the ship as well. The cause was a piece of water plant that had blocked the seacock of the toilet. On top of that, during the night we were hit by fierce hurricane-force winds of around force 11. The disaster was complete.

38. 11 June 2010 07:31 utc

    • Position: 55° 32.100 N 060° 39.361 W
    • Wind: Calm / 0 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 2.8 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.6 °C

    Hope: The belt of pack ice along the coast has become impassable. The persistent north and east wind has pressed the whole of the ice together along the coast, several nautical miles wide. At the moment we are shut in by the ice and are hoping for a change in the wind direction. So far we have been spared the dangerous ice pressure, but the gap between the white-blue crystals and the Smelne steel is getting alarmingly smaller. A quick rescue could come from a south or west wind.

39. 2 June 2010 10:45 utc

    • Position: 56° 33.023 N 061° 41.430 W
    • Wind: NE / 2-3 Bft
    • Weather: partly cloudy / 4.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.4 °C

    Wanderlust: With the work around the ship done, the urge to move on takes hold of us and the gypsy life (Gypsy Life) will begin again. We will try to break through the belt of pack ice lying off the coast, about 30 nautical miles (55.56 km) wide, in order to reach open water.
    Our course will depend on wind and weather. Unfortunately there will be no reports for an indefinite time, as we will not be able to call at any settlements in the near future – because of the pack ice. As soon as we manage it, we will report on our adventures straight away.
    Anyone who would like quicker news during this time, or wants to get in touch with us, can do so on our satellite telephone 008816/41432846.

    Ahoy
    The Pauls

    

40. 26 May 2010 10:30 utc

    • Position: 56° 33.023 N 061° 41.430 W
    • Wind: N / 5 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / 4.8 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.7 °C

    Blocked: Looking forward to lying quietly alongside a quay was probably a little premature. The whole bay of Nain is blocked with heavy pack ice. But today I managed to break a narrow channel through the ice close to the shore in order to reach the harbour. Now we have to take on all the fuel and supplies for the onward passage and carry out all the servicing and repair work around the ship.

41. 23 May 2010 10:45 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: variable wind / 1 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 4.2 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.8 °C Ice: 32 cm

    Breakout: After 6 months held captive in the ice, we succeeded today in escaping into open water. For almost two days we fought our way through the pack ice to cover a distance of about 3 nautical miles (5.5 kilometres). Now we are holding course for the harbour of Nain.

42. 17 May 2010 15:41 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: SE / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / 4.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 4 °C Ice: 35 cm

    Stepping the mast: The bad weather of recent days – fog, drizzle and rain – held up the further work on the steadying sail. But today I was able to make up a lot of it. The mast is standing, the shrouds are set up taut and the sail has been hoisted for a trial.

43. 9 May 2010 98:41 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: variable wind / 2 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / 8 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.8 °C Ice: 51 cm

    Concern: Not only does the ice have holes up to 40 cm deep, hidden by thin layers of ice like pitfalls – I have also sighted a badly marked (injured) Ursus americanus. The bear is dragging its left paw badly. It moves with difficulty through the snow, which in places is still deep. Whether the injury was caused by outside influence such as a bad shot or a fight, or by illness, I cannot say for certain at the moment. But it is staying in the immediate vicinity of our ship, which demands increased attention from Silvia and me.

44. 3 May 2010 11:45 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: variable wind / 1 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / 4.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.8 °C Ice: 64 cm

    Important visitors: Today we began to remove our insulating material (moss and branches) from the side decks and the foredeck. Absorbed in our work, we did not notice at all that we were being watched. Two moose, standing on the ice only a few metres from the ship, are watching us work. It is a cow moose with a drooping ear and a two-year-old calf. They let themselves be photographed and filmed for a while and then quietly disappeared into the nearby forest.

    

45. 27 April 2010 20:42 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NE / 2-3 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / 1.8 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 3.0 °C Ice: 72 cm

    Awake: The daytime temperatures are slowly climbing above freezing point. Here and there you can already hear little streams of meltwater murmuring under the snow. Reason enough for the black bear (Ursus americanus) to wake from his winter rest. The very dirty and still somewhat dazed fellow is now out looking for food.

46. 19 April 2010 12:23 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: calm /0 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -11.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.9 °C

    Signs of spring: With night temperatures between –15° and –18°, no spring feelings are going to come up any time soon. But the sun, standing ever higher, is already showing nature its full strength. The goat willow (Salix caprea) already has its first “catkins”. The spruce grouse (Falicepenis canadensis) is sounding its mating call. The first insects have flown into the ship as well. Here and there dark caps of rock stick out of the snow. The snow bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis) has arrived as the first migratory bird. For us these are all important signs that spring will not keep us waiting much longer.

47. 12 April 2010 11:23 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /4-5 Bft
    • Weather: partly cloudy / -3.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.8 °C

    Construction: For some days now I have been busy building a steadying sail, which is to be placed at the stern of the “Gypsy Life”. The design provides for a 4 metre high mast to hold a sail of 5 m² into the wind. The job of this sail is to damp the ship’s rolling motion when “making way through the water” and when “lying at anchor”. My challenge lies in obtaining all the materials needed on the spot. For the mast I am using a tree that I felled and worked myself. The rest, such as stays, hooks and shackles, comes out of my oversized store of spare parts. Only the sail was ordered in St. Johns, Newfoundland.

    

48. 8 April 2010 20:10 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /1-2 Bft
    • Weather: overcast / 3.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.9 °C

    Sad: This day had to come. Now the time has arrived! I had to give our Skidoo back. We covered more than 2000 kilometres with this snowmobile through the wilderness of Canada. For Silvia and me these were unforgettable experiences. We are still surrounded by thick ice, but the steadily rising temperatures mean that the ice will not last indefinitely. Please bear in mind that because of this we cannot reach the village of Nain for the next few weeks. Our post is being kept for us.

49. 4 April 2010 01:34 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: E /1-2 Bft
    • Weather: dark / -2.7 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.8 °C

    Sleep: Since the middle of December last year I have had to get up regularly three or four times a night to check our stove and put on more wood. An exhausting business when hard work in bad weather is waiting during the day. With the somewhat milder temperatures now, the stove manages to hold its heat through the night. More and more often I can now sleep right through the night.

50. 1 April 2010 11:34 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: calm /0 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -6.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.4 °C

    Many readers have surely wondered why we chose our winter berth for the ship so far away from the shore. Even then our concern was the ice pressure. The tide – on average 2 metres – puts the ice under dangerous stresses. The ice is rearing up closer and closer towards the ship. We are hoping for milder temperatures. A race against time.

51. 25 March 2010 11:24 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: E / 4-5 Bft
    • Weather: snowfall / -2.8 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.9 °C Ice: 72 cm

    Growth: With pick and shovel I dug a hole out of the ice to measure the thickness exactly. The ice in our bay is now 72 cm thick. This growth comes from the cold nights of the past few days. On top of that there were 31 cm of fresh snow last night. Winter still has us firmly in its grip.

    

52. 21 March 2010 23:10 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /5-6 Bft
    • Weather: dark / -18.6 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.9 °C

    Persistent: For about three weeks now we have had mostly sunny and calm weather. In the meantime Silvia and I have made long trips into the wilderness with the Skidoo. At present the sun rises at about 06:30 (local time) and sets at around 20:10. Sometimes the temperatures make it above the zero mark. But at night around –20 ° can be reached. I assume that we have reached roughly the halfway point of our Canadian winter. So we will stay frozen in ice and snow for some time yet.

    

    

53. 17 March 2010 11:40 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: calm /0 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -6.7 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.0 °C Ice: 59 cm

    Marker: On the crossing to Nain, to buy fresh food (fruit and vegetables) once again, Silvia and I saw a row of small trees sticking out of the ice at the corner of a small island. We understood at once that this was meant as a warning for Skidoo drivers. Even though we were not immediately aware of the full extent of the danger, we passed the place with great care.
    When we asked about it in Nain, we learned that at exactly this spot seven snowmobiles and eleven people – children among them – had broken through the ice. They all survived, because the water was very shallow. The tidal current had broken the ice at this corner and, to make matters worse, had also pushed it one sheet over the other. The water then ran onto the ice underneath and was hidden at the surface by drifted snow. A “pitfall” that was very hard to make out.

54. 12 March 2010 14:20 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /3-4 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / -2.8 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.1 °C

    Loyalty: This year too our main sponsor Smelne Yachtcenter is standing by us, despite the poor economic situation in Europe. For seven years we have been living permanently on our ship, which in 5500 operating hours has carried us 28276 nautical miles safely through every extreme situation. It is only thanks to the exceptional quality, right down to the last detail, that we have been able to complete all our expeditions successfully and without damage so far. We thank the Smelne Yachtcenter team from Drachten in the Netherlands for their “loyalty”.

55. 8 March 2010 11:45 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /2-3 Bft
    • Weather: snowfall / -3.2 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.8 °C

    The bear is about: Because this year, as a result of the somewhat milder winter, the edge of the pack ice does not extend so far out to the open sea, the animals are also to be found among the offshore islands. As a result the polar bears wandering down from the north are coming closer to the settlements as well. Several cases of damage to hunting cabins have already been reported. The hungry bears push in the doors or windows, frames and all, in the hope of finding something to eat. So far we have been spared such a visitor, but not far from our ship I have found tracks of Ursus Maritimus.

56. 28 February 2010 17:05 utc

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: no wind
    • Weather: sunny / -4.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 2.1 °C

    Done it: For two days now I have been working on a path leading through scrub and undergrowth, in order to climb one of the highest mountains near our winter berth with the Skidoo. There were also extremely steep ascents and rugged slopes to be tackled. The aim of this “climbing exercise” is to be able one day to show my fans pictures of the Canadian expanses at my talks. What I saw was unique and will stay deeply anchored in my memory forever.

    

57. 15 February 2010 14:03 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NE /3-4 Bft
    • Weather: rain / 2.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.2 °C

    Monsoon: Over the past few days, monsoon-like rainfall has completely changed the landscape and the ice. Small frozen streams have come back to life as rivers that are not without danger.
    In places the snow has melted back so far that the ground and the low-growing shrubs are showing again. On the ice, huge freshwater lakes up to 80 cm deep have formed in various bays – caused in part by the strong winds as well. Nain is out of reach for us at the moment.

58. 8 February 2010 23:10 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /5-6 Bft
    • Weather: overcast / -8.2 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.9 °C

    Home-made: For quite some time now I have been busy cutting out and sewing together pieces of leather, which, once fur was added, made a warm fur cap. For this I used raccoon (procyon lotor) and beaver fur (castor fiber), both of which I had bought in Nain. Because these two animals spend all their time by and in the water, they have a well-insulating undercoat. My “creation” is certainly no masterpiece of the furrier’s trade, but here usefulness comes before beauty.

    

    

59. 3 February 2010 16:20 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /5-6 Bft
    • Weather: driving snow / -23.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.3 °C

    Chilly: Today Silvia and I drove to Nain with the skidoo and the transport sledge to fetch diesel, petrol and provisions. On the last stretch of ice we had to cross, the wind blew so hard that snowdrifts piled up to a metre high. Visibility was less than ten metres and the temperature, made worse by the wind (wind chill), - 45°. I only managed to take two photos, otherwise my fingers would have frozen. On the difficult stretches Silvia had to push the sledge. On the icy ground the violent gusts swept her feet away from under her several times. Despite good precautions, the cold, made worse by the wind of our own movement, gave me frostbite on my face.

    

60. 30 January 2010 12:04 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /5-6 Bft
    • Weather: snowstorm / -12.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.9 °C

    Snow: I can still remember exactly my time on active winter road service, when more than 20 cm of fresh snow meant chaos. At the moment I look forward to every snowflake, because it raises our windbreak around the bow of the “Gypsy Life” to almost two metres. During the night about 60 to 80 cm of snow fell in sheltered spots. Only now are we enjoying the benefit of our snow wall, which keeps the icy cold, made worse by the strong wind (wind chill), away from the ship, so that it no longer freezes in so hard overnight.

61. 21 January 2010 14:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /2 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / -18.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.7 °C Ice: 40 cm

    Thank you: Ever since we built our raft I have been struggling with a torn joint capsule in my right knee and tendonitis in my right arm. As I have been able to take things easy over the last few weeks, my knee has steadily improved. But because I was forced to use the chainsaw every day to cut ice and wood, the inflammation in my arm has not been able to heal yet. Only through the helpful support of some of the people of Nain am I now on the mend. They supplied us with dry firewood and culinary treats such as willow ptarmigan (lagopus lagopus) and caribou meat. Our heartfelt thanks from Silvia and me to all the people in Nain who look after us so kindly and help us so much.

62. 18 January 2010 13:10 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -14.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.4 °C

    At over 100 km/h I raced across the ice on my skidoo and reached the village of Nain safe and sound. With my 150 hp snowmobile I positively flew over the ice fields. For an old motorcyclist like me it was tremendous fun – for a “Labradorian” probably rather mad.

63. 16 January 2010 23:45 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /10-11 Bft
    • Weather: snowstorm / -13.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.7 °C

    Hurricane-force winds: Last night we were struck by a very severe snowstorm. The wind and snow barrier we put up in front of the bow of the “Gypsy Life” with so much effort held firm. Once again our “Smelne” has stood up to a great challenge. The ship suffered no damage.

    

64. 12 January 2010 15:32 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW / 5-6 Bft
    • Weather: snowstorm / 8.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.8 °C

    Failed: Today I tried to reach the village of Nain with the skidoo. A snowstorm did restrict visibility considerably, but that was no problem for me. After a drive of 13 kilometres Nain was in sight. Over the last few kilometres, however, the ice still had large ice-free patches. I turned back. According to the information passed on to us from Nain, an attempt was also made from Nain to cross the ice. That attempt is said to have failed as well. The driver was able to save himself; the skidoo broke through the ice and sank.

    

65. 10 January 2010 13:42 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NE / 2-3 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -14.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.3 °C

    In the nick of time: After the daily job of sawing ice around the ship, we found that two iron pipes which open below the waterline had frozen up. It took several hours before we finally had the pipes free of ice. We were very glad that we noticed the problem in time and that no water damage had been caused by frost cracks. To prevent frost problems in future, we have pushed plastic hoses into the pipe openings from outside. From now on they are meant to stop the ice from exerting its splitting force inside the pipes.

66. 6 January 2010 12:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: E / 6-8 Bft
    • Weather: continuous rain / +2.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.3 °C

    Strong nerves: The continuing mild temperatures and the constant rain are putting the “Gypsy Life” and her crew to a severe test. The ship is still shut in by thick ice in its anchorage, but the ice is still not load-bearing enough to cross the large areas of water safely with the skidoo. Reaching the village of Nain is hopeless. Our supplies are running low. Under these circumstances we are also unable at present to answer the mail sent to us. We hope you will forgive us for this.

67. 29 December 2009 20:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW / 4-5 Bft
    • Weather: snowfall / -6.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.8 °C Ice: 20 cm

    Breaking through: As we had not reached the village of Nain for quite some time, I had to go hunting. Together with our dog Ratz I roamed for several hours – equipped with snowshoes, rifle and warm clothing – through the forest in the surrounding area. Only as darkness fell did I manage, thanks to Ratz’s good nose, to shoot a porcupine (Erethizon dorsatum) weighing about 26 kilograms. After dressing the game I took care of hauling it away with the skidoo. It happened while crossing the dangerous edge between land and ice: because of the gathering darkness I did not manage to pick the right ice floe, one that could carry the weight of the skidoo, of Ratz, of me and of the kill. The snowmobile suddenly broke through the ice at the back and sank as far as the seat. Only thanks to my presence of mind and my experience from my earlier days as a motocross racer did I manage to escape from this dangerous situation. I shifted all my weight forward and opened the throttle fully. The enormously powerful engine worked its way through the water and the chunks of ice and back up onto safe ice.

68. 27 December 2009 14:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: E / 1 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -6.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.0 °C Ice: 20 cm

    Outing: For the first time Silvia, our dog Ratz and I set off into the distance across the snow-covered wilderness with our new vehicle. Over frozen lakes, through forest and across the wide tundra we made our way through snow that was in places up to 1.30 metres deep. We saw a pair of moose (Alces alces) and a few coveys of ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus). After about three hours and fourteen kilometres covered we ended our trip and returned to our floating, warm home.

69. 24 December 2009 - Christmas Eve 15:55 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: W / 2 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / -7.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.5 °C

    Because of the weather conditions in Labrador, Silvia and Harald Paul are currently cut off from all communication in the village of Nain. They are therefore turning by satellite telephone to all the readers of their website and to their friends, sponsors and supporters to pass on their best wishes.

70. 21 December 2009 12:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: E /5-6 Bft
    • Weather: rain / 2.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.6 °C

    A difficult situation: A change in the weather has undone almost all our preparations for the frosty winter. Several days of continuous rain have made our moss insulation on the foredeck and the side decks collapse completely. The route for our supplies is completely cut off, because the rain and the mild temperatures are melting away the ice, which was already 17 cm thick. All the same, I try to cross the ice with our empty inflatable dinghy in tow, in order to carry some firewood and fresh water to the “Gypsy Life” for emergency supplies. Reaching the village of Nain is hopeless at the moment.

    

71. 14 December 2009 23:10 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /1 Bft
    • Weather: dark / -20.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.5 °C Ice: 5 cm

    Frozen in: With an ice cover of about 4 to 5 cm, our ship froze in solid overnight. It is very difficult and dangerous to keep up the supply of firewood and fresh water. The ice is not yet strong enough to carry all that weight.

72. 9 December 2009 21:30 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 48.300 W
    • Wind: NW /1-2 Bft
    • Weather: dark / -8.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 0.5 °C

    The overland trip with the snowmobile and the fully loaded sledge failed. The hills we had to get over were impassable, with snowdrifts sometimes more than 2.50 metres deep. We loaded everything onto the raft again. It is thanks only to our “Smelne” with her powerful Yanmar engine that we were able to carry all our material safely to our wintering place against the strong tidal current.

73. 7 December 2009 16:42 UTC

    • Position: 56° 37.420 N 061° 40.090 W
    • Wind: NW /3-4 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -6.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.2 °C

    Missed: Although we had waited for favourable wind – and with it low waves – we had to break off the transport of the snowmobile on the raft. The spray from the ever-growing waves froze onto the skidoo and the sledge so hard that the increasing weight pushed the raft further and further under water. We got ourselves and the raft onto a sandy beach. From here it will hopefully be possible to take up the journey overland to the wintering place.

74. 7 December 2009 11:10 UTC

    • Position: 56° 32.600 N 061° 41.208 W
    • Wind: NW /3 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / -8.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.5 °C

    The weather had improved, so we were finally able to load our snowmobile onto our raft in Nain. We wrapped it carefully in plastic sheeting to protect it from the salt water. Only after the strong wind had eased were we able to leave Nain this morning to take the snowmobile to our winter berth.

    

    

75. 2 December 2009 21:49 UTC

    • Position: 56° 39.780 N 061° 44.089 W
    • Wind: NW / 9-10 Bft
    • Weather: snowstorm / -1.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.5 °C

    After sixteen days of hard work we have finally managed to pull our raft (it has ended up 8 metres long and 3.50 metres wide) into the water. Today we want to use our raft to carry our snowmobile to the wintering place. Unfortunately we had to break off our trip to Nain because of the snowstorm raging at the moment, with wind forces of around 9 – 10 Bft. We had to anchor in an emergency and tried to find shelter behind an island. The hurricane-force winds raged around the raft, and it was put to its first test of fitness straight away.

76. 26 November 2009 09:34 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.539 N 061° 48.250 W
    • Wind: E / 2 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / -1.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.0 °C

    Because of the effects of the financial crisis and of mismanagement, we see the Canada Adventure Project as seriously at risk for next year. The insolvency of one of our partners is putting us in considerable difficulties – more about this under News: Survival in the Wilderness and the Financial Crisis

77. 18 November 2009 01:25 UTC

    • Position: 56° 39.811 N 061° 44.057 W
    • Wind: NW / 9-10 Bft
    • Weather: starry sky / -3.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 1.0 °C

    The test: This afternoon the north-west wind freshened, so we gave up our supply trip to Nain. We turned back and wanted to reach our safe anchorage again. But the storm became so strong that we had to look for another sheltered spot for the “Gypsy Life”. The wind shook our shelter around the tarpaulin hard and the wooden frame creaked ominously – but our rope lashings held. Even the moss stayed in place. As a precaution we had wetted it with fresh water so that it could freeze onto the deck. We came through the storm without damage. According to the shipping forecast the waves were 3 to 5 metres high. The supply ship to Nain did not come.

78. 17 November 2009 13:44 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.525 N 061° 48.202 W
    • Wind: W / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: overcast / -2.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 4.2 °C

    Raft building: Our raft is making progress. We have already felled all the trees we need and half of them have been skidded, dragged out of the forest and laid side by side. The “launch” is expected on 2 December. This full-moon day brings the high tide (spring tide) close to our raft, so that we can pull it into the water as easily and with as little effort as possible.

    

79. 11 November 2009 11:32 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.522 N 061° 48.202 W
    • Wind: W /2-3 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -3.2 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 4.2 °C

    Raft building: We have started building a raft (8 metres long and 4 metres wide). With this float we want to carry the snowmobile and its sledge by water to our winter quarters. We reckon it will take about two weeks to build.

80. 5 November 2009 20:10 UTC

    • Position: 56° 32.600 N 061° 41.208 W
    • Wind: W /3-4 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / 3.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 4.2 °C

    Helping hands: From the middle of November the freighter stops its supply runs. Because of the masses of ice expected, food and important supplies can no longer be brought to Nain by ship. Important post is then only delivered by air freight. For this reason we are now trying to stock up with enough winter supplies. A “truck” and helpful residents of Nain are supporting us in this.

    

    

    

    

    

    

81. 3 November 2009 14:11 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 49.700 W
    • Wind: SE /4 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / -3.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 4.8 °C

    To be able to keep up our supplies and get about in this wilderness in the coming winter, it soon became clear to us that we would need a special tracked vehicle for it. The firm “Smelne Yachtcenter” made it possible for us to buy a snowmobile weighing about 350 kilograms with 150 hp. Without such technical support one would be hopelessly lost here, with a snow depth of about 1.50 to 2 metres and an average temperature of about –25 °. We thank “Smelne Yachtcenter” for this extraordinary support.

    

82. 26 October 2009 12:10 UTC

    • Position: 56° 41.318 N 061° 46.715 W
    • Wind: NW /4-5 Bft
    • Weather: sunny - snowfall / -9.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 3.0 °C

    Nothing doing without moss: Snowfall, strong wind and falling temperatures are forcing us to insulate our “deck shelter”. At the moment we are prising moss and lichen out of the frozen ground by the sackful, to pack out and insulate the space between the wooden frame we have put up and the canvas.

83. 21 October 2009 11:24 UTC

    • Position: 56° 32.584 N 061° 46.205 W
    • Wind: NE /2-3 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy - sleet / 2.1 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 5.4 °C

    Outstanding service: After years of experience with the firm Whisper Power we have become used to good service by now. Even so, our partner has once again managed to surprise us with great commitment and outstanding service.
    Whisper Power actually managed, in the shortest possible time, to get urgently needed spare parts into one of the remotest areas of eastern Canada. A logistical masterpiece – my thanks from the M/S “Gypsy Life”!

84. 17 October 2009 10:22 UTC

    • Position: 56° 40.318 N 061° 46.715 W
    • Wind: SW /3-4 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / -2.9 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 6.2 °C

    Adrenalin: Since our arrival in Canada we have had 29 encounters with black bears (ursus americanus), some of them very close. Meeting these animals in the wild has become almost an everyday thing for us by now. Today, for the first time, we experienced the attack of a powerhouse of some 450 to 500 kilograms. Bruin showed us his speed and his appetite for attack in no uncertain terms.
    In broken country, at the edge of a small lake, we suddenly came upon each other at a distance of 30 to 40 paces. Without much warning the bear started an attack, snorting loudly. I fired the first shot from my rifle into the air – no reaction. The second shot went in front of his paws – the gravel spraying up made him uncertain. Only the third shot into the gravel stopped the attack and he made off. I still had two cartridges in the rifle. That was close – pure adrenalin.

85. 13 October 2009 03:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 49.600 W
    • Wind: NW /1 Bft
    • Weather: Fog / -2.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 5.0 °C

    Early this morning loud scratching noises on the ship’s hull startled us out of our sleep. Our first fear, that a bear wanted to board our ship, luckily proved wrong. A small seal had seen its reflection in the ship’s paintwork and thought it had met one of its own kind.

86. 10 October 2009 08:42 UTC

    • Position: 56° 42.500 N 061° 49.600 W
    • Wind: SW /3- 4 Bft
    • Weather: Fog+sleet / +2.3 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 5.0 °C

    The chimney is smoking: The wood stove “Hunterstove” I ordered three weeks ago was flown to me from Goose Bay to Nain. We installed it in the open cockpit and fired it with the wood we had cut ourselves. A cow moose came right up to the ship and eyed the heavily smoking chimney with curiosity.

    

    

87. 6 October 2009 16:30 UTC

    • Position: 56° 40.315 N 061° 46.719 W
    • Wind: NE / 4 Bft
    • Weather: Rain+snowfall / +2.6 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

    Winter quarters: In spite of the unpleasant weather we finished building the sections for our shelter on the stern of the “Gypsy Life” today. Now we face the job of fitting the parts, which have turned out very heavy, to the ship from the water.

    

88. 1 October 2009 16:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 32.601 N 061° 41.210 W
    • Wind: NE /3-4 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / +6.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

    Nain: In some mysterious way the “Gypsy Life” was badly damaged in the harbour of Nain, on the port side in the area of the stern. The structural rope was torn and the iron edge badly deformed. The repair took two and a half days to give our ship its good looks back.

89. 29 September 2009 16:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 40.315 N 061° 46.719 W
    • Wind: NE / 1-3 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / +5.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

    “Canada Adventure”: All sorts of questions about our Canada Adventure Project keep being put to us. So, to help people understand this undertaking, we would like to sum up our intentions: We are making this journey and living in the wilderness in order to broaden and to learn our knowledge of living and surviving in harmony with nature. In our opinion only someone who has the ability to exist in nature without restriction can protect and respect it. Our photos and accounts of untouched nature are meant to encourage you to decide for yourself how far you can protect nature in your own surroundings. As a result we see conservation for all of us that works immediately and costs nothing. It would be our wish to pass this on to the generations that come after us.

90. 24 September 2009 20:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 32.698 N 061° 41.200 W
    • Wind: SW / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: Sun / +11.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

    Nain: At last, after a fortnight of paperwork, applications and waiting for the decisions, we have managed to get all the forms and permits for our stay in Canada settled.

91. 23 September 2009 15:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 40.315 N 061° 46.719 W
    • Wind: E / 2 Bft
    • Weather: Rain / +5.2 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

    Winter quarters: We have finished the first two wooden walls for our shelter. Because of the constant rain we unfortunately had to stop work. In the meantime we have set up a postal address here, from which we can collect the post every two to three weeks. The address is:
    Harald Paul M/S Gypsy Life
    General Delivery
    Nain, NL AOP 1LO Canada
    So anyone who would like to can write to us at any time – the winter nights up here are very long!

    

92. 21 September 2009 20:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 40.315 N 061° 46.719 W
    • Wind: SW / 1-2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / +13.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 8.0 °C

    Winter quarters: Yesterday around midnight the howling of a wolf (canis lupus) woke us. It was very close and could be heard loud and clear. My attempt to trick it into coming closer by “howling” like a wolf myself failed miserably.
    Today, as the wind conditions are favourable at the moment, I made a first exploratory trip in the inflatable dinghy. Huge, wide landscapes opened up in front of me, which can only be covered by long days on foot.

93. 16 September 2009 10:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 40.315 N 061° 46.719 W
    • Wind: W / 2 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / +1.0 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

    We have found our winter quarters. We have already cut the first wooden poles in the nearby forest. With these we want to build a shelter around the tarpaulin on the after part of our ship. The first night frosts are the forerunners of the coming winter.

94. 14 September 2009 10:15 UTC

    • Position: 56° 40.315 N 061° 46.719 W
    • Wind: E / 3 Bft
    • Weather: cloudy / +2.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

    We have light snowfall and are looking for a suitable place to spend the winter in Canada. According to the local people, in winter we can expect mainly winds from south-west, west and north-west, and we must reckon with a snow depth of around 2 metres and an ice thickness of between 1.00 and 1.30 metres. Temperatures are said to be around – 45 °. Good logistical preparation for the winter months is now vital for our survival.

95. 8 September 2009 15:00 UTC

    • Position: 56° 32.597 N 061° 41.201 W
    • Wind: NW / 5-6 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / +5.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

    We have reached the settlement of Nain. Here we want to sort out the entry conditions for the length of our stay. So far all the Canadians are very friendly and extraordinarily helpful! Three buildings of the historic Moravian mission at Hebron (our last stopping place) were destroyed by fire on 10 September. Nobody was hurt and the former mission building was not damaged.

    

    

96. 4 September 2009 12:02 UTC

    • Position: 58° 12.286 N 062° 37.319 W
    • Wind: W / 4-5 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / +8.6 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 4.0 °C

    Hebron, the old German mission station, is at present looked after by an Inuit family, who gave us a warm welcome as the first German ship.
    In the Alps of Europe cows graze; here in Labrador the black bears (Ursus americanus) graze. We have already sighted more than ten. One of them even stood face to face with me.

    

97. 31 August 2009 08:33 UTC

    • Position: 58° 37.124 N 062° 47.699 W
    • Wind: SW / 1 Bft
    • Weather: sunny / +2.6 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 4.0 °C

    The “Gypsy Life” with her crew Harald and Silvia Paul has reached her destination, Canada, after a marathon of 467 nautical miles – marked by variable winds and heavy cross seas. As the smallest German motor vessel so far, the “Gypsy Life” has passed this test with flying colours. In the 71 hours under way from Greenland to Canada the ship heeled 136,800 times from starboard to port, at an angle of 25° to 45°. Bracing against the centrifugal forces this puts on the body counts as very hard work. Now that the North Atlantic has been crossed, the “Canada Adventure” can begin. We thank our sponsors, friends and supporters, and everyone who is following our voyage on our website or through the reports in the magazines “Yachtvision” and “Motorboot-Magazin Boote”.
    Warm greetings to Europe
    The Pauls

98. 28 August 2009 07:00 utc

    • Position: 61° 59.818 N 049° 41.300 W
    • Wind: NE / 3-4 Bft
    • Weather: Fog / +3.5 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 5.2 °C

    We have reached Paamiut (Frederikshåb) in the Kuannersooq fjord. This is our starting point for the crossing to northern Labrador (Canada). The coast of Labrador is about 440 nautical miles away. We are allowing about 70 hours for the crossing.

99. 23 August 2009 11:00 utc

    • Position: 61° 19.745 N 048° 41.763 W
    • Wind: N-NW / 10-12 Bft
    • Weather: Rain / +5.4 °C
    • Water temperature: Water: 5.0 °C

    Despite a very well sheltered anchorage between the mountains, hurricane-force gusts with wind forces of around 12 Bft turned our inflatable dinghy over together with the outboard motor. The motor and the equipment were pushed completely under water. Thanks to the waterproof dry bags from Ortlieb, the equipment stayed dry. The outboard motor could also be repaired and is fully working again.

100. 21 August 2009 07:00 utc

     • Position: 60° 57.267 N 048° 09.787 W
     • Wind: W / 7-9 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +9.0 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

     While rounding a group of rocks near “Indre Kitsigsut”, a monster wave pushes the “Gypsy Life” so far over onto her starboard side that the side windows are under water. Luckily there was no water ingress and no damage. Thanks to our practised precautions, everything stayed in its place.

101. 17 August 2009 10:00 utc

     • Position: 60° 33.596 N 045° 55.328 W
     • Wind: SW / 1 Bft
     • Weather: cloudy /+12.3 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 7.0 °C

     I had put my back out and so had to order myself a week’s enforced rest. In the meantime I am fit again and we are carrying on through the fjords of south-west Greenland.

102. 11 August 2009 20:44 utc

     • Position: 60° 08.925 N 044° 17.267 W
     • Wind: SE / 7 Bft
     • Weather: Rain / +6.8 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 4.0 °C

     We were very lucky! The inside passage at Cape Farewell has been almost free of ice for a week. That allowed us to pass the cape in shelter. We have reached the first inhabited settlement in weeks. In Aappilattoq (about 200 inhabitants) we were given a most friendly welcome.

103. 9 August 2009 20:23 utc

     • Position: 60° 03.415 N 043° 10.272 W
     • Wind: NE / 2 Bft
     • Weather: Rain / +9.1 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 6.4 °C

     Today, in the middle of the ocean (60.13710,- 042.5262), we met two eccentric Americans in a tiny recreational fishing boat. Just to set a “record”, they want to cross the North Atlantic in the “smallest motorboat”.
     At the moment we are at Greenland’s southernmost weather station in Prins Christian Sund. We want to ask there about the weather and ice conditions of the past years. We were given a very warm welcome here!

     

104. 7 August 2009 06:00 utc

     • Position: 61° 47.173 N 042° 10.952 W
     • Wind: NW / 2 Bft
     • Weather: cloudy / +7.3 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 5.7 °C Ice: 2-3/10

     In the past few days we have passed several abandoned and derelict settlements. What struck us most in this region along the east coast of Greenland was how few animals there are. In two days we want to round the notorious Cape Farewell.

105. 30 July 2009 21:11 utc

     • Position: 64° 19.851 N 040° 32.284 W
     • Wind: NE / 2 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +8.3 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 5.0 °C Ice: 5-6/10

     On the way from Angmagssalik to the Fridtjof Nansen Peninsula we sighted several schools of bowhead whales. At the moment we are in a completely uninhabited area of untouched nature.

     

106. 27 July 2009 10:00 utc

     • Position: 65° 38.864 N 037° 33.911 W
     • Wind: N / 4 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +13 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 6.0 °C

     Yesterday, together with enthusiastic nature lovers from Austria, we made a 70-nautical-mile excursion through the ice around Angmagssalik. Today we took on fresh food in the harbour and bunkered 1393 litres of diesel. For tomorrow we are planning our onward passage south along the east coast.

     

107. 23 July 2009 13:55 utc

     • Position: 65° 38.865 N 037° 33.891 W
     • Wind: NE / 9 Bft
     • Weather: Fog / +2.3 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 9.0 °C

     When we were 52 nautical miles off Greenland in the sunshine yesterday evening, we already saw ourselves as the winners. But then the weather changed all of a sudden. Hurricane-force winds and pack ice that had not been forecast turned the passage into a horror trip. Altogether we needed 51 hours for the 380 nautical miles. Crew and ship, however, are in good shape.

     

     

108. 22 July 2009 21:13 utc

     • Position: 65° 44.660 N 034° 01.296 W
     • Wind: SW / 3 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +9.1 °C

     Land in sight! At around 21:00 utc the east coast of Greenland came into sight. It is sunny and very large icebergs are drifting ahead of us. The crossing was very hard. Silvia was only able to take over from me after 120 nautical miles – a rough sea with wind forces around 7 Bft sapped our strength. So far we have covered 266 nautical miles. The coast is now only 52 nautical miles away.

109. 21 July 2009 08:22 utc

     • Position: 66° 08.519 N 023° 34.694 W
     • Wind: NE / 5-6 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +11.0 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 9.0 °C

     Off to Greenland! We want to try to get close to Angmagssalik. We expect about 40 to 50 per cent ice cover there.

110. 18 July 2009 12:00 utc

     • Position: 66° 21.834 N 022° 47.052 W
     • Wind: no wind / 0 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +12.0 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 9.0 °C

     The sun is shining and the “Gypsy Life” is lying at anchor in an idyllic bay surrounded by waterfalls. We are getting everything ready for the crossing to Greenland.

     

111. 15 July 2009 12:00 utc

     • Position: 66° 01.447 N 021° 39.518 W
     • Wind: NE / 5-6 Bft
     • Weather: Fog / +6.2 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 9.0 °C

     Thick fog and rain all around us. In the meantime we have carried out all the necessary maintenance work on the expedition ship “Gypsy Life”. I did the Yanmar service that was due on our main engine myself. During our inspection it turned out that the ship’s heating is broken.

112. 11 July 2009 11:20 utc

     • Position: 66° 33.500 N 016° 00.000 W
     • Wind: NE / 2 Bft
     • Weather: hazy / +12.4 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 6.0 °C

     The “Gypsy Life” has reached the Arctic Circle. About twenty white-beaked dolphins (Lagenorhynchus albirostris) accompanied us and looked our ship over with curiosity.

113. 8 July 2009 09:30 utc

     • Position: 65° 31.578 N 013° 40.408 W
     • Wind: no wind / 0 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +17.0 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 6.0 °C

     We are lying at anchor in the lonely bay of Brunavik on the east side of Iceland. It is very sunny and the swell moves the “Gypsy Life” gently up and down.

114. 3 July 2009 22:58 utc

     • Position: 64° 43.871 N 014° 21.918 W
     • Wind: NE / 5-6 Bft
     • Weather: Fog / +6.4 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 10.0 °C

     After 43 hours and 255 nautical miles we reached Berufjördur fjord in Iceland. We have thick fog and no sight of land.

115. 2 July 2009 04:00 utc

     • Position: 62° 09.134 N 007° 10.263 W
     • Wind: N / 2-3 Bft
     • Weather: Fog / +11.5 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 12.0 °C

     In thick fog we leave Westmanhaven (Faroes) on radar to cover the roughly 260 nautical miles to Iceland.

116. 27 June 2009 10:02 utc

     • Position: 61° 31.854 N 006° 46.658 W
     • Wind: E / 3-4 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +16.2 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 13.0 °C

     After 178 nautical miles and about 28 hours under way we reached the island of “Sydarö” in the “Faroe Islands” group. Sighting four orcas made this crossing an unforgettable experience.

     

117. 23 June 2009 17:20 utc

     • Position: 59° 58.589 N 001° 15.722 W
     • Wind: SE / 2 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +15.0 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 12.0 °C

     After 71 nautical miles and about 12 hours under way we reached the Shetland Islands in the best of sea and weather conditions.

118. 20 June 2009 16:30 utc

     • Position: 59° 16.063 N 002° 52.654 W
     • Wind: N / 3 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +13.4 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 12.0 °C

     On the island of Westray we keep a lookout for puffins (Fratercula arctica). We find large colonies of these birds, which are breeding at the moment and which are also called “comics of the cliffs” here.

     

119. 16 June 2009 18:05 utc

     • Position: 58° 57.000 N 003° 17.527 W
     • Wind: NE / 8 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +14.4 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 11.0 °C

     Today we reached Stromness, a small harbour on the island of Mainland in the Orkney Islands. We used the opportunity to take on fresh food and water.

120. 15 June 2009 12:37 utc

     • Position: 58° 39.000 N 005° 00.000 W
     • Wind: NE / 5-6 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +11.5 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 11.0 °C

     Cape Wrath, north-west Scotland. The north-easterly wind and the strong current setting east made for a short, steep sea. Once again it demanded everything of crew and gear.

121. 12 June 2009 13:02 utc

     • Position: 58° 01.149 N 005° 25.537 W
     • Wind: NW / 2 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +12.2 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 12.1 °C

     At our anchorage among the “Summer Isles” a married couple, friends of ours from Germany, came to visit and topped up our stores with fresh food. On a joint discovery tour we explored the natural beauty of these islands. Again and again we were accompanied by porpoises.

     

     

     

     

     

     

122. 9 June 2009 18:00 utc

     • Position: 57° 42.233 N 005° 40.698 W
     • Wind: NE / 2-3 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +11.1 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 12 °C

     Otters have visited us at our anchorage off Loch Gairloch. Every day we can watch seals from the ship. Out of curiosity they swim right up close to the “Gypsy Life”.

123. 3 June 2009 12:11 utc

     • Position: 56° 50.544 N 005° 07.312 W
     • Wind: SW / 2 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +21.2 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 16 °C

     We have left the Caledonian Canal and are heading north along the west coast of Scotland with the “Gypsy Life”. On the shore of the Morvern Peninsula I caught us a beautiful sea trout (68 cm, 4.1 kg) for supper.

     

124. 24 May 2009 12:00 utc

     • Position: 57° 29.120 N 004° 14.930 W
     • Wind: NW / 6-7 Bft
     • Weather: sunny / +16 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 14 °C

     Today we reached the Caledonian Canal and are going through the canal to western Scotland. As the latest reports say that 70 % to 80 % polar pack ice is to be expected in Greenland at the moment, we will stay longer on the Scottish coasts.

     

125. 19 May 2009 07:00 utc

     • Position: 57° 28.477 N 001° 46.575 E
     • Wind: W-SW / 3 Bft
     • Weather: overcast / +11 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 09 °C

     Strong south-westerly winds of 6 Bft during the crossing from Harlingen (NL) to Peterhead. I got seasick and threw my guts up. Silvia stood in for me completely. We covered the 374 nautical miles in 66 hours.

126. 15 May 2009 10:10 utc

     • Position: 53° 05.841 N 005° 50.295 E
     • Wind: E / 2 Bft
     • Weather: cloudy / +13 °C
     • Water temperature: Water: 13 °C

     After an intensive period of preparation, the long-awaited departure date is finally within reach.
     Today at 12:15 the expedition ship “Gypsy Life” and her crew Silvia, Harald and the dog Rats set out from Grou in Friesland (northern Netherlands) on the voyage to Canada. At the start of our adventure we would like to thank our sponsors most warmly, and all the helping hands who are contributing so much to the success of our journey. Our special thanks go to Manfred Deiler, Bernhard Neumeier, Siegfried Klas, Reinhard Galonske and the team at Raiffeisenbank Weil.
     To all our internet visitors and magazine readers we wish exciting and enjoyable reading with “Canada Adventure”.

     Your skipper Harald Paul

     

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